Hans Gardemar’s adventure in the Himalayas

Hans Gardemar is an established music producer and bandleader with over 40 years of experience. He is a well-known name in Swedish music and frequently appears on TV. Today, he is a lecturer in music production at the Royal College of Music in Stockholm, but his passion for music and television production remains strong. Through his musical career, he got to know PJ, an adventure-loving friend who eventually managed to convince him to join a trip to India.

Packing and preparation

A packing list arrived via email, and it was strict. A maximum of 60 litres in a roll bag, including everything – helmet, biker clothing, and other necessities. The clothing also had to serve multiple purposes.

A visa had to be obtained, and upon arrival in India, a stamp was issued that was valid for 30 days. The currency was Indian rupees, but it was better to exchange money on-site. A good tip was to bring dollars and euros, as credit cards were not accepted. Hans increased his training in preparation for the journey, but one thing he could not prepare for was altitude sickness. A lack of oxygen can cause a person to collapse, which was certainly not ideal for the challenging roads ahead.

The flight first went to New Delhi, followed by a domestic flight to Leh, a journey of one and a half hours. Moving through domestic transit required patience – the visa was checked seven times, and the process took three and a half hours in the same transit hall.

Leh is one of the world’s highest airports, at 3,500 metres above sea level. Acclimatisation was now necessary for the body to produce more red blood cells. PJ informed Hans: “From now on, we are vegetarians. A smart way to avoid getting sick.”

The adventure begins

Sleeping was difficult, and dizziness was part of the acclimatisation process. But the next day, it was time to set off. The motorcycles had been collected the day before – Royal Enfield Himalaya 411 cc -22 with an extra 5-litre fuel can.

The first challenge was a roundabout in left-hand traffic out of the city. Indian traffic is different – no one obeys traffic lights or stop signs, speed limits are only recommendations, and honking is constant.

After passing through a large city gate, a four-hour ride on asphalt began – a great opportunity to get to know the motorcycle before heading into the mountains.

The first stop was at the Sirsir-La pass, 4,500 metres high. Colourful prayer flags fluttered in the wind, and even the motorcycles were decorated for good luck. Here, Buddhism, Hinduism, and Islam coexist.

The roads were often in poor condition due to landslides. Nomads constantly moved to repair sections of the road that had been damaged. Despite its narrowness, this was an important route, even used by lorries. The only open window for travel was August to September – after that, monsoon rains and snow made the roads impassable.

Surviving on the “Roof of the World”

Hans realised just how deep the drop was on the outer side – 300 metres straight down. PJ simply stated: “You do not want to go off the road here. No one will come to rescue us. Helicopters cannot reach this altitude. If there’s an accident, it’s a memorial service.”

The scenery resembled another planet, surreal in its beauty. Brake fluid began boiling on the winding mountain descent, but they managed to reach a village. Due to the conflict between India and Pakistan, military presence was noticeable at border checkpoints. Soldiers moved in convoys to avoid satellite surveillance.

The highlight of the journey was reaching an altitude of 6,305 metres – a feat requiring courage and endurance. The temperature was not particularly cold, sometimes reaching 20 degrees Celsius, making the Gore-Tex suit uncomfortably warm. A puncture hit Hans’s bike on the way down to Srinagar but help arrived quickly. After a gondola ride to the houseboats in Srinagar, the journey ended with a beautiful evening on the river.

After ten days, the adventure was over. Would Hans do it again? The answer was clear – Yes!

Budget

• PJ as a guide, including everything: approx. €250/day (motorcycle, food, and accommodation)
• Return flights: approx. 20,000 SEK